Day 12
July 6, 2011
14 miles
178.8 Total
On paper this day looks pretty easy. It was anything but. Actually, the hiking wasn't all that difficult. We had heard from a few that the day was going to be hard, but I figured a lot of it had to do with the fact that we would have to traverse the junky, run down extensions of the modern city of Burgos before reaching our destination. Physically, there is no difference, but it can be challenging mentally to reach your "destination" and still have two and half hours of walking to do to get to the city center. The key is to not let your mind wander too far ahead of yourself. Anytime your mind reaches your destination before your body, the pain in your feet tends to magnify, hunger pains tend to become louder and angrier. Best to just keep your body and mind in accord and accept the fact that you will get there when you get there. Easier said than done.
We were a bit slow getting out of our hostel this morning. Snoring and a hot room kept a few of us awake longer than we would of liked. Bree ended up leaving 30 minutes before us. She has been hampered a bit by shin splints and the the majority of our walk today, mainly on hard, asphalt roads, took a toll. She could barely move by the time we met up with her at the municipal hostel. I have had similar issues on a long-distance hike and it was one of the more painful things I have had to endure. It eventually forced me off the trail so we have to take this seriously. As soon as we checked in, I took off in search for food and a bag of ice. Wifi to update the blog was just as difficult to find. Sometimes the big cities make it hard to find the one thing you need. It then became necessary to make phone calls home (our phone isn't working), which sent me out in search of a phone card. Eventually all things were taken care of, but as I sit here typing, I can't help but think our my 14 mile day quickly turned into a 20 mile day. In fact, our daily mileage only reflects that which was covered along the Camino. We don't count the exploring we do after getting settled in the hostel. I would conservatively estimate we all walk an extra 2-3 miles each day.
We now have dilemma of sorts. Bree's condition won't allow her to keep up with us and stay healthy. We all know she COULD keep up, because that is just the way Bree is, but it is better if we split for a few days and allow her the space to listen to her own body and make the appropriate decisions on mileage and such. We will play it by ear, but we have next five days all planned out and when she is ready to rejoin us, she will know where we are.
I had no illusions about a trip of this nature. There are always things you can't plan for, but few are the obstacles that are too big to get around in order to reach the Atlantic ocean. And in overcoming each trial we grow a little stronger. This is no different. Now it is time to run through the plaza square next to the Catredral in Burgos (quite impressive) and find that one free wifi spot. Maybe I can get 21 miles for the day:)
James
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Day 11: Belrado to Ages (Auna)
Day 11: Belrado to Ages
16.4 miles
Total: 164.4 miles
I had such a great day yesterday, it must have wore me out because I was really tired when I woke up today. I snapped out of it quickly because we had such a long day. I, personally, was really excited for the small but noticable extra mileage. I was ready for this challenge. Today's first hill wasn't more than a bump in the road, you could barely notice it. Second hill? Oh yes, there was a second hill. It was there, but nothing that could get in my way. I feel much more stronger and confident already.
Bree and I come along a parked van on the side of the trail. It had shade, a stand with fruits and drinks. We weren't sure to approach it because the man standing there seemed to be wearing a mask.. As we get closer we notice that his face is just painted, he's a mime! (: a sketchy mime but a mime indeed. He stamps our pilgrim credentials and gave Bree some tea. My feet weren't feeling so nice but after I got in a conversation with the 'Pole Draggers' my feet soon became numb. They are from the Canary Islands and their island is an active volcano! One lady just joined in on the trip, very out going, they are both Catholics and they were so fascinated by my age and that I'm walking the Camino. I'm glad I got to talk to them before they leave tomorrow in Burgos.
We depart in a small town and I meet up with March and Bree, we look around in the churches and wait for Deija. Bree and I take off as March waits for Deija, the town we are staying at isn't more than 3 kilometers away, it's a quick walk. I see Bree as I enter the town and she explains our hostel choices, we end up staying at the 8€ Albergue. It's very nice and new. The town is small and cute, I think most of the businesses in these small towns run on pilgrims. I visit and have small talk with my fellow pilgrims and I see my best Korean friend, Min, again.
As I say once again, I love the atmosphere here. I walk outside to sit in the sun and I hear a Spanish guitar start to play, then claps following the rhythm. The Spanish singing voices get carried in the big gusts of wind, everyone is having such a wonderful time, whether you understand the language or not. The other night a wise retired teacher from Quebec told me that we all speak the same language, the language of the Camino. I can't explain it but it makes sense. We all communicate no matter what language you speak.
We ordered the pilgrim dinner and of course we were the first people there. (: one of the ladies in the kitchen comes out with this LOUD, obnoxious, ear grabbing dinner bell and rings it in our ears. We go and sit down and the first course is Spanish rice with a bunch of vegetables and chicken, it was delicious. Second round was a small salad with a small slice of some potato quiche called 'tortilla'. My stomach was already growing by this point. They then bring out small serving sized cups of flan and chocolate pudding. It was the perfect way to end the meal.
Over all today was a good day. Maybe as the trip goes on I will feel more comfortable to share my own personal thoughts more thoroughly so stay tuned and thank you all for following. Your support is greatly appreciated. (:
By Auna
16.4 miles
Total: 164.4 miles
I had such a great day yesterday, it must have wore me out because I was really tired when I woke up today. I snapped out of it quickly because we had such a long day. I, personally, was really excited for the small but noticable extra mileage. I was ready for this challenge. Today's first hill wasn't more than a bump in the road, you could barely notice it. Second hill? Oh yes, there was a second hill. It was there, but nothing that could get in my way. I feel much more stronger and confident already.
Bree and I come along a parked van on the side of the trail. It had shade, a stand with fruits and drinks. We weren't sure to approach it because the man standing there seemed to be wearing a mask.. As we get closer we notice that his face is just painted, he's a mime! (: a sketchy mime but a mime indeed. He stamps our pilgrim credentials and gave Bree some tea. My feet weren't feeling so nice but after I got in a conversation with the 'Pole Draggers' my feet soon became numb. They are from the Canary Islands and their island is an active volcano! One lady just joined in on the trip, very out going, they are both Catholics and they were so fascinated by my age and that I'm walking the Camino. I'm glad I got to talk to them before they leave tomorrow in Burgos.
We depart in a small town and I meet up with March and Bree, we look around in the churches and wait for Deija. Bree and I take off as March waits for Deija, the town we are staying at isn't more than 3 kilometers away, it's a quick walk. I see Bree as I enter the town and she explains our hostel choices, we end up staying at the 8€ Albergue. It's very nice and new. The town is small and cute, I think most of the businesses in these small towns run on pilgrims. I visit and have small talk with my fellow pilgrims and I see my best Korean friend, Min, again.
As I say once again, I love the atmosphere here. I walk outside to sit in the sun and I hear a Spanish guitar start to play, then claps following the rhythm. The Spanish singing voices get carried in the big gusts of wind, everyone is having such a wonderful time, whether you understand the language or not. The other night a wise retired teacher from Quebec told me that we all speak the same language, the language of the Camino. I can't explain it but it makes sense. We all communicate no matter what language you speak.
We ordered the pilgrim dinner and of course we were the first people there. (: one of the ladies in the kitchen comes out with this LOUD, obnoxious, ear grabbing dinner bell and rings it in our ears. We go and sit down and the first course is Spanish rice with a bunch of vegetables and chicken, it was delicious. Second round was a small salad with a small slice of some potato quiche called 'tortilla'. My stomach was already growing by this point. They then bring out small serving sized cups of flan and chocolate pudding. It was the perfect way to end the meal.
Over all today was a good day. Maybe as the trip goes on I will feel more comfortable to share my own personal thoughts more thoroughly so stay tuned and thank you all for following. Your support is greatly appreciated. (:
By Auna
Day 10: Santo Domingo to Belrado (Deija)
Day 10: Santo Domingo to Belrado
14.9 Miles
Total: 148.4
Today is unable to be described in a few mere paragraphs written before bed. As most of you already know, today was Independence Day for the United States. Otherwise known as July Fourth. We celebrated with some of our newly made friends by making s very large dinner of spaghetti, hotdogs, two different salads, chips, mango, watermelon, and for drinks there wine, champagne, and Kas. It was a feast, and I believe everyone enjoyed themselves very much. Auna even brought muffins out and put a little note card next to them saying, "Happy Independence Day America! Please take one!" So not only did we have delicious muffins to munch on before and after, we also had a cake dish that Mr. March had purchased, some chocolate, and lemon cookies from our new friends.
Since day four we have either been following or followed by a group of five from New Jersey. Three women, and two men; John, Dan, Anne Marie, Concepta, and Allison. Allison, Concepta, and John are all teachers, Dan is a priest, and Anne Marie is a nurse. Auna and I formed a bond between the girls and ourselves almost immediately and soon we all considered each other family. Walking, talking and sweating together makes random people friends pretty quickly apparently. We all have our own pace, and the Camino is a bondage between all. I will sometimes walk with Allison, but today I stayed with Concepta, Anne Marie, and John. They are young still, mid-twenties, and all very funny. We even have inside jokes!
I still think it is amazing that just walking, and sleeping with a few people over a matter of a couple of days can give you a relationship that will last a lifetime. I have become "Facebook Buddies" with people from all over the world! We have formed "relationships" with people from everywhere; A few people from South Korea, a few from Quebec the whole group from New Jersey, a couple from Sweden, a man and his son that are from Brazil, a few Germans, Spaniards of course, and even people from Australia, Africa, Ireland, UK, Portugal, Canada, and obviously the USA as well. I could go on for a while longer too!
Back to our friends though, we all went shopping and we all tried to participate in the making of food, but that is very hard in a small kitchen with more than a few people. Most of us gave some effort, especially Bree, Mr. March, and Auna. Not to make excuses for myself or anything, but I was shopping for groceries when they started dinner and tried to help as much as I could when I returned.
We sat down for dinner around six, and though it all looked amazing, we all refrained until grace was finished. We all dug in, and the large amount of food that many of us doubted would even have a dent, was very much eaten, and enjoyed. We still had a salad, and some noodles, but other than that there wasn't much left.
After dinner, we all stayed seated near the table and just talked... There were many conversations going on, but one that I remember having is that today was suppose to be "Make It or Break It" Day. Today, we were suppose to test ourselves and either go home, or stay in the race. It was a sort of shock actually to realize we actually survived today, without that much effort. Make It or Break It, turned into "Umm...duh...Made It."
It wasn't that long of a walk if I recall correctly, and if it was, I couldn't tell you without checking the maps. This part of the trip, is what makes people want to do this again. "The good stuff." The times with friends, family, and strangers that you will not forget.
I know that everyday will not be as fun as today, we won't have complete home-cooked meal every night, we won't have our Jersey friends much longer, but we will have each other, and new friends are already on there way over.
Today we also began speaking with two people from Quebec; a boy and his uncle. They are very kind people, we started talking with them when we offered them food because we had so much. They sat down and we all began a conversation that was still underway when I returned from mass later that evening. We exchanged Facebooks, e-mails, and our blog URL was given to them. What was funny about it, is that we had been walking together and sleeping at the same hostels as the two for the majority of the trip, and I was unaware that they spoke English, so I never initiated a conversation. Food has always brought people together I guess. :)
I think today was the day I finally started to understand why we are here. All of us, everyone on the Camino. It's not just a walk, it's a journey, and we are all in it together. I'm looking forward to tomorrow even if we will be walking eighteen miles over three mountains/hills.
Happy Fourth everyone! Hope it went well!
Time for bed. :)
- Deija
14.9 Miles
Total: 148.4
Today is unable to be described in a few mere paragraphs written before bed. As most of you already know, today was Independence Day for the United States. Otherwise known as July Fourth. We celebrated with some of our newly made friends by making s very large dinner of spaghetti, hotdogs, two different salads, chips, mango, watermelon, and for drinks there wine, champagne, and Kas. It was a feast, and I believe everyone enjoyed themselves very much. Auna even brought muffins out and put a little note card next to them saying, "Happy Independence Day America! Please take one!" So not only did we have delicious muffins to munch on before and after, we also had a cake dish that Mr. March had purchased, some chocolate, and lemon cookies from our new friends.
Since day four we have either been following or followed by a group of five from New Jersey. Three women, and two men; John, Dan, Anne Marie, Concepta, and Allison. Allison, Concepta, and John are all teachers, Dan is a priest, and Anne Marie is a nurse. Auna and I formed a bond between the girls and ourselves almost immediately and soon we all considered each other family. Walking, talking and sweating together makes random people friends pretty quickly apparently. We all have our own pace, and the Camino is a bondage between all. I will sometimes walk with Allison, but today I stayed with Concepta, Anne Marie, and John. They are young still, mid-twenties, and all very funny. We even have inside jokes!
I still think it is amazing that just walking, and sleeping with a few people over a matter of a couple of days can give you a relationship that will last a lifetime. I have become "Facebook Buddies" with people from all over the world! We have formed "relationships" with people from everywhere; A few people from South Korea, a few from Quebec the whole group from New Jersey, a couple from Sweden, a man and his son that are from Brazil, a few Germans, Spaniards of course, and even people from Australia, Africa, Ireland, UK, Portugal, Canada, and obviously the USA as well. I could go on for a while longer too!
Back to our friends though, we all went shopping and we all tried to participate in the making of food, but that is very hard in a small kitchen with more than a few people. Most of us gave some effort, especially Bree, Mr. March, and Auna. Not to make excuses for myself or anything, but I was shopping for groceries when they started dinner and tried to help as much as I could when I returned.
We sat down for dinner around six, and though it all looked amazing, we all refrained until grace was finished. We all dug in, and the large amount of food that many of us doubted would even have a dent, was very much eaten, and enjoyed. We still had a salad, and some noodles, but other than that there wasn't much left.
After dinner, we all stayed seated near the table and just talked... There were many conversations going on, but one that I remember having is that today was suppose to be "Make It or Break It" Day. Today, we were suppose to test ourselves and either go home, or stay in the race. It was a sort of shock actually to realize we actually survived today, without that much effort. Make It or Break It, turned into "Umm...duh...Made It."
It wasn't that long of a walk if I recall correctly, and if it was, I couldn't tell you without checking the maps. This part of the trip, is what makes people want to do this again. "The good stuff." The times with friends, family, and strangers that you will not forget.
I know that everyday will not be as fun as today, we won't have complete home-cooked meal every night, we won't have our Jersey friends much longer, but we will have each other, and new friends are already on there way over.
Today we also began speaking with two people from Quebec; a boy and his uncle. They are very kind people, we started talking with them when we offered them food because we had so much. They sat down and we all began a conversation that was still underway when I returned from mass later that evening. We exchanged Facebooks, e-mails, and our blog URL was given to them. What was funny about it, is that we had been walking together and sleeping at the same hostels as the two for the majority of the trip, and I was unaware that they spoke English, so I never initiated a conversation. Food has always brought people together I guess. :)
I think today was the day I finally started to understand why we are here. All of us, everyone on the Camino. It's not just a walk, it's a journey, and we are all in it together. I'm looking forward to tomorrow even if we will be walking eighteen miles over three mountains/hills.
Happy Fourth everyone! Hope it went well!
Time for bed. :)
- Deija
Day 9: Najera to Santo Domingo (Bree)
Day 9: Najera to Santo Domingo
13.1 miles
Total: 133.5
Today as I make my writing debut, I can't help but be impressed by how far we have come. I will confess that after I agreed to join James and the girls on this trip, I had my share of doubts and mini nightmares about the outcome. I actually had zero doubts about whether we would finish or not, but would instead have images of James and I taking turns pushing the girls in wheelbarrows or pulling them upnhills on makeshift army stretchers, to make it to the end. Luckily, they have completely exceeded my expectations and I have been happily surprised by their great efforts and toughness so far. They should be very proud of themselves!
As I walk daily with this group, it is clear that the lessons I will gleen from the Camino will be much different than I am use to. On most physical adventures my mind is in hyper-competitive mode. Always focused on how hard or far I can push myself each day. My previous adventures have also all been ones of the solo variety, so the social aspect of the Camino is a drastic change. This trail has forced me to slow down and focus on all the things I would normally miss as I'm trying to see if i can get a quick extra couple miles in before dark. I'm pretty sure James is in the same boat. Instead of trying to see how far we can hike each day, we will learn patience, how to listen to topics of teenage conversation we can't relate to, learn how to share lessons we have learned the hard way in a way that is helpful to a younger generation, how to turn every situation into a positive one despite the circumstances, and how to enjoy the present moments instead of always being focused on the finish line!
Today was a good practice session for many of those lessons. As all the pilgrims literally slide, slipped, and clomped down the road in the heavy red clay in the rain, the only good approach was to laugh and try to make that attitude contagious to those around you! Once your mind was focused on the positive, you could notice how beautiful the landscape was we were surrounded by. Although almost everyone you meet speaks a different language, a smile and a laugh as you almost slip is a universal mood lifter!
Overall, despite the adjustment last night to sleeping in a room with 90+ other pilgrims to a chorus of snoring (also universal), the rain, the mud, the wind, and then the blazing sun, it was a good day! We arrived in Santo Domingo by 11:00, so after a nap (I'm a big fan of siesta!) we had ample time to explore the city; which is rich in history better left to James to explain:)
I think the nuns tonight will be a lot quieter (we're staying in a convent of sorts)
To a good nights sleep and fresh legs in the morning,
~Bree
13.1 miles
Total: 133.5
Today as I make my writing debut, I can't help but be impressed by how far we have come. I will confess that after I agreed to join James and the girls on this trip, I had my share of doubts and mini nightmares about the outcome. I actually had zero doubts about whether we would finish or not, but would instead have images of James and I taking turns pushing the girls in wheelbarrows or pulling them upnhills on makeshift army stretchers, to make it to the end. Luckily, they have completely exceeded my expectations and I have been happily surprised by their great efforts and toughness so far. They should be very proud of themselves!
As I walk daily with this group, it is clear that the lessons I will gleen from the Camino will be much different than I am use to. On most physical adventures my mind is in hyper-competitive mode. Always focused on how hard or far I can push myself each day. My previous adventures have also all been ones of the solo variety, so the social aspect of the Camino is a drastic change. This trail has forced me to slow down and focus on all the things I would normally miss as I'm trying to see if i can get a quick extra couple miles in before dark. I'm pretty sure James is in the same boat. Instead of trying to see how far we can hike each day, we will learn patience, how to listen to topics of teenage conversation we can't relate to, learn how to share lessons we have learned the hard way in a way that is helpful to a younger generation, how to turn every situation into a positive one despite the circumstances, and how to enjoy the present moments instead of always being focused on the finish line!
Today was a good practice session for many of those lessons. As all the pilgrims literally slide, slipped, and clomped down the road in the heavy red clay in the rain, the only good approach was to laugh and try to make that attitude contagious to those around you! Once your mind was focused on the positive, you could notice how beautiful the landscape was we were surrounded by. Although almost everyone you meet speaks a different language, a smile and a laugh as you almost slip is a universal mood lifter!
Overall, despite the adjustment last night to sleeping in a room with 90+ other pilgrims to a chorus of snoring (also universal), the rain, the mud, the wind, and then the blazing sun, it was a good day! We arrived in Santo Domingo by 11:00, so after a nap (I'm a big fan of siesta!) we had ample time to explore the city; which is rich in history better left to James to explain:)
I think the nuns tonight will be a lot quieter (we're staying in a convent of sorts)
To a good nights sleep and fresh legs in the morning,
~Bree
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Day 8: Logrono to Najera (Auna)
Day 8
18.3 mi.
Total: 120.4 mi.
This morning didn't start out so fresh but as we walked on to the trail my morning started to get brighter. Not only was it getting brighter by the beautiful sunrise, it was also getting brighter as we walked by a big, blue lake. The fish jumping in the air made me smile as did the ducks. It was a pleasant surprise seeing the little bunny rabbits pop their little head out of the bushes. We soon encounter a man sitting in a stand smoking a cigarette. On this stand he had cherries, apples, tostada crackers and a big book. These people are known as "trail angels". They sit on the trail with their stand and give this stuff out to pilgrims. I sign his book and leave a quote saying "Just keep moving!", he stamps our pilgrim passports and pushes food at us. He notices my walking stick that I found at a water font and he tries to explain to me in very fast and loud Spanish that it was no good. He points to a pile of walking sticks he has and asks me to take one. I kindly deny because I have grown attached to my stick and I didn't want to replace it but his kindness was so pushy. He kept saying in Spanish that it was all in my head and not my heart. I tried it out to make him happy and so I took it. I couldn't tell a difference between my sticks but he was happy. I ditched my old one. As I'm about to leave with my new walking stick he runs over and rants something to me as he points to the food. I knew he wouldn't be happy if I didn't take some, I took a handful of everything. (:
The atmosphere on the trail, and in the hostels is so welcoming and just so great during the day. Everyone seems to be having a wonderful time and life just couldn't get better. As the day grew longer my legs didn't get so tired. In fact, Bree and I had started a secret competition between us and a lady, that very casually and impressively, bent over and peed on a tree. She would surprisingly get ahead of us and we would kick it into gear and pass her. Along the way we made jokes to each other and shared stories but our main focus was not letting her beat us to the hostel. We would practice making our strides longer to stay ahead. As we enter the town things get a little bit more intense. We stopped on a corner and we were going to wait for March and Deija to show up but the lady was gaining on us... We decided to book it before she passed us and we knew March and Deija would catch up sooner or later. We are running through Najera keeping our eyes wide, looking for any yellow arrows or shell on the ground to lead us to the hostel. As we are trying to concentrate, all these other familiar things are happening around us. We see a dog peeing on the side walk in almost the same fashion she did and we pass a young boy just simply peeing on one of the small trees in the park like she did. All of these things reminding us that she was on our tails.. Mind you, this lady looks to be about in her late 50's or early 60's. We arrive at the hostel and it hasn't even opened yet and backpacks are trailing from the door and we make sure to have ours right before hers! The doors begin to open and people rush through the doors. She grabs her backpack and cuts in line! Bree instantly turns to me and says "She's a cutter!!!" and we both are disappointed. We called today 'Mission Impissible' , another great Camino memory. The game starts all over again tomorrow.
We settle into our bunk beds and then set out to explore the area. I grab my own personal journal and head out to a lovely river we passed. It had flowers growing in it ad the current was perfect. The temperature was all I could ask for on this hot day. I found a dry rock in the middle of the river and so I sat. I listened to the water flow and the birds chirp and the people talk as I wrote. These moments have become my favorite part of the day, it's all you could ever ask for and being satisfied and enjoying time without a computer or TV in front of you feels so nice. I feel like the trail has become my home, not the hostels I sleep in every night, but the Camino itself.
I walk to the super market and buy everything I want for dinner and lunch tomorrow and a few treats. A few things I am going to miss dearly is the fresh baguette and the chorizo with all the different cheeses. It's so delicious! Deija and I find a candy store so we have to walk in. Of course we buy a bunch of sugar, but then we saw our fellow pilgrims from New Jersey, we share our candy and exchange Facebook accounts on our way back to the hostel. I remembered that my South Korean friend Min was making a spicy Korean pasta and he wanted me to try it, I couldn't wait. The flavor was so explosive and delicious! I'm so thankful for all of these wonderful, funny, smart, crazy people I have met.. And it's only the beginning.
I was having a fabulous day... Until I go to lay down on my bunk bed. I happen to be sleeping near this older man. Our beds meet at a cross so his head is about two feet away from mine. As I'm writing this blog entry he starts to doze off and these loud startling snores start coming from him. He soon turns into a big, hairy, loud man with overly large tonsils. Another sleepless night in the hostels here I come!
Auna
18.3 mi.
Total: 120.4 mi.
This morning didn't start out so fresh but as we walked on to the trail my morning started to get brighter. Not only was it getting brighter by the beautiful sunrise, it was also getting brighter as we walked by a big, blue lake. The fish jumping in the air made me smile as did the ducks. It was a pleasant surprise seeing the little bunny rabbits pop their little head out of the bushes. We soon encounter a man sitting in a stand smoking a cigarette. On this stand he had cherries, apples, tostada crackers and a big book. These people are known as "trail angels". They sit on the trail with their stand and give this stuff out to pilgrims. I sign his book and leave a quote saying "Just keep moving!", he stamps our pilgrim passports and pushes food at us. He notices my walking stick that I found at a water font and he tries to explain to me in very fast and loud Spanish that it was no good. He points to a pile of walking sticks he has and asks me to take one. I kindly deny because I have grown attached to my stick and I didn't want to replace it but his kindness was so pushy. He kept saying in Spanish that it was all in my head and not my heart. I tried it out to make him happy and so I took it. I couldn't tell a difference between my sticks but he was happy. I ditched my old one. As I'm about to leave with my new walking stick he runs over and rants something to me as he points to the food. I knew he wouldn't be happy if I didn't take some, I took a handful of everything. (:
The atmosphere on the trail, and in the hostels is so welcoming and just so great during the day. Everyone seems to be having a wonderful time and life just couldn't get better. As the day grew longer my legs didn't get so tired. In fact, Bree and I had started a secret competition between us and a lady, that very casually and impressively, bent over and peed on a tree. She would surprisingly get ahead of us and we would kick it into gear and pass her. Along the way we made jokes to each other and shared stories but our main focus was not letting her beat us to the hostel. We would practice making our strides longer to stay ahead. As we enter the town things get a little bit more intense. We stopped on a corner and we were going to wait for March and Deija to show up but the lady was gaining on us... We decided to book it before she passed us and we knew March and Deija would catch up sooner or later. We are running through Najera keeping our eyes wide, looking for any yellow arrows or shell on the ground to lead us to the hostel. As we are trying to concentrate, all these other familiar things are happening around us. We see a dog peeing on the side walk in almost the same fashion she did and we pass a young boy just simply peeing on one of the small trees in the park like she did. All of these things reminding us that she was on our tails.. Mind you, this lady looks to be about in her late 50's or early 60's. We arrive at the hostel and it hasn't even opened yet and backpacks are trailing from the door and we make sure to have ours right before hers! The doors begin to open and people rush through the doors. She grabs her backpack and cuts in line! Bree instantly turns to me and says "She's a cutter!!!" and we both are disappointed. We called today 'Mission Impissible' , another great Camino memory. The game starts all over again tomorrow.
We settle into our bunk beds and then set out to explore the area. I grab my own personal journal and head out to a lovely river we passed. It had flowers growing in it ad the current was perfect. The temperature was all I could ask for on this hot day. I found a dry rock in the middle of the river and so I sat. I listened to the water flow and the birds chirp and the people talk as I wrote. These moments have become my favorite part of the day, it's all you could ever ask for and being satisfied and enjoying time without a computer or TV in front of you feels so nice. I feel like the trail has become my home, not the hostels I sleep in every night, but the Camino itself.
I walk to the super market and buy everything I want for dinner and lunch tomorrow and a few treats. A few things I am going to miss dearly is the fresh baguette and the chorizo with all the different cheeses. It's so delicious! Deija and I find a candy store so we have to walk in. Of course we buy a bunch of sugar, but then we saw our fellow pilgrims from New Jersey, we share our candy and exchange Facebook accounts on our way back to the hostel. I remembered that my South Korean friend Min was making a spicy Korean pasta and he wanted me to try it, I couldn't wait. The flavor was so explosive and delicious! I'm so thankful for all of these wonderful, funny, smart, crazy people I have met.. And it's only the beginning.
I was having a fabulous day... Until I go to lay down on my bunk bed. I happen to be sleeping near this older man. Our beds meet at a cross so his head is about two feet away from mine. As I'm writing this blog entry he starts to doze off and these loud startling snores start coming from him. He soon turns into a big, hairy, loud man with overly large tonsils. Another sleepless night in the hostels here I come!
Auna
Friday, July 1, 2011
Day 7: Torees Del Rio to Logrono
Day 7
12 miles
Total: 102.1
Torres del Rio was a small town. A couple of albergues (the word for a Spanish pilgrim hostel) were flanked by a couple of bars and a church with ties to the Knights Templar. We stayed at Casa Mariela, an albergue with four or so dormitory rooms with beds for 10. For once, our sleep was quiet and uninterrupted by the snores and grunts that usually accompany communal sleeping spaces. We even slept in a bit, leaving the hostel at 6:30am.
We had a short day and were in no hurry, but the pace was kept up. Deija was a bit hampered by a new blister on her forefoot while Auna pushed ahead as if there was fire at her heels. At one point, she was so far ahead I couldn't even see her. When I finally caught up to her at our pre-planned break spot, she was sporting a grin like a child who just discovered a secret.
The walking was easy today and it gave me a lot of time to think. Of course history came up. As we wandered through rolling farmland we would occasionally come across old ruins of pilgrim hostels or other buildings long abandoned. We inspected the ruins of San Pedro Cathedral for a bit. Look at our facebook page for pics of the crumbling church. Wandering this path and all it's complicated historical connections can leave me daydreaming for hours.
However, today I thought mostly of backpacks. The Camino is a social hike and rarely are you alone. Unless otherwise distracted by some spectacular view, I tend to just fixate on the backpack ahead of me. I thought about what I would pack if I were to do this again, what else I would bring, what I would leave behind. Inevitably I started to think of packs, gear, ounces, and pounds; all the technical pieces of the puzzle that you become acutely aware of every step of the way. Once you get used to the pack though, you start to become aware of all the other things you carry. Perhaps it is a heavy heart, or maybe a hatred, or a jealousy, or a loss of direction. All those things that are infinitely heavier and more burdensome than anything you could ever cram into a pack. I'm not sure, everyone is different, but I suspect we are all out here trying to lighten our load a bit in one way or another. Everyone seems to recognize this undercurrent and is therefore a bit quicker to listen, gentler in their words, and when someone says "Buen Camino," the most common of pilgrim greetings, you get the sense they truly mean it.
As we approached Logrono, the large university city where we will spend the night, I saw a pilgrim hunched over her mother's feet in the 90 degree afternoon sun, squinting, providing care for debilitating blisters. A small sacrifice for a lightened load. So too were the words of encouragement one pilgrim offered his friend as they climbed one of the many steep, thigh burning climbs we had today. I'm actually unsure of what he said, it was in French, but I know what he meant. "Just a little bit further," probably sounds the same in all languages. Of course, there is the opposite. One can add to someone's load, a metaphorical brick in the backpack. In the local supermarket, I walked by a mother as she slapped the candy out of her son's hands and added in Spanish, "you are too fat," to the already public embarrassment. I think it will be my goal on this trip to lighten loads however I can. Even if it is just a simple "Buen Camino" at the right moment, I want to do my part.
If you are still reading this and it makes any sense (we tend to write these things at the end of long days when our brains aren't entirely functioning) feel free to join me at home. Go ahead and lighten someone's pack a bit. It will feel good and it just might loosen up your own.
Tomorrow we have another long day to a town called Navare. It will match our longest day yet and will put us at about 25% completed. Wish us luck and a Buen Camino!
James
12 miles
Total: 102.1
Torres del Rio was a small town. A couple of albergues (the word for a Spanish pilgrim hostel) were flanked by a couple of bars and a church with ties to the Knights Templar. We stayed at Casa Mariela, an albergue with four or so dormitory rooms with beds for 10. For once, our sleep was quiet and uninterrupted by the snores and grunts that usually accompany communal sleeping spaces. We even slept in a bit, leaving the hostel at 6:30am.
We had a short day and were in no hurry, but the pace was kept up. Deija was a bit hampered by a new blister on her forefoot while Auna pushed ahead as if there was fire at her heels. At one point, she was so far ahead I couldn't even see her. When I finally caught up to her at our pre-planned break spot, she was sporting a grin like a child who just discovered a secret.
The walking was easy today and it gave me a lot of time to think. Of course history came up. As we wandered through rolling farmland we would occasionally come across old ruins of pilgrim hostels or other buildings long abandoned. We inspected the ruins of San Pedro Cathedral for a bit. Look at our facebook page for pics of the crumbling church. Wandering this path and all it's complicated historical connections can leave me daydreaming for hours.
However, today I thought mostly of backpacks. The Camino is a social hike and rarely are you alone. Unless otherwise distracted by some spectacular view, I tend to just fixate on the backpack ahead of me. I thought about what I would pack if I were to do this again, what else I would bring, what I would leave behind. Inevitably I started to think of packs, gear, ounces, and pounds; all the technical pieces of the puzzle that you become acutely aware of every step of the way. Once you get used to the pack though, you start to become aware of all the other things you carry. Perhaps it is a heavy heart, or maybe a hatred, or a jealousy, or a loss of direction. All those things that are infinitely heavier and more burdensome than anything you could ever cram into a pack. I'm not sure, everyone is different, but I suspect we are all out here trying to lighten our load a bit in one way or another. Everyone seems to recognize this undercurrent and is therefore a bit quicker to listen, gentler in their words, and when someone says "Buen Camino," the most common of pilgrim greetings, you get the sense they truly mean it.
As we approached Logrono, the large university city where we will spend the night, I saw a pilgrim hunched over her mother's feet in the 90 degree afternoon sun, squinting, providing care for debilitating blisters. A small sacrifice for a lightened load. So too were the words of encouragement one pilgrim offered his friend as they climbed one of the many steep, thigh burning climbs we had today. I'm actually unsure of what he said, it was in French, but I know what he meant. "Just a little bit further," probably sounds the same in all languages. Of course, there is the opposite. One can add to someone's load, a metaphorical brick in the backpack. In the local supermarket, I walked by a mother as she slapped the candy out of her son's hands and added in Spanish, "you are too fat," to the already public embarrassment. I think it will be my goal on this trip to lighten loads however I can. Even if it is just a simple "Buen Camino" at the right moment, I want to do my part.
If you are still reading this and it makes any sense (we tend to write these things at the end of long days when our brains aren't entirely functioning) feel free to join me at home. Go ahead and lighten someone's pack a bit. It will feel good and it just might loosen up your own.
Tomorrow we have another long day to a town called Navare. It will match our longest day yet and will put us at about 25% completed. Wish us luck and a Buen Camino!
James
Day 6: Estella to Torres Del Rio (Deija)
Day 6
18 miles
Total 90.1
Today I woke up at about 4:30AM. The hostel we stayed in last night was great, but in the room we all were in, there was also a few older guys that snored really loud. So, not very much sleep was taking place...even with earplugs and headphones.
I woke because I had a dream that it was late, and that I had to rush and get ready, but I woke up from my dream and glanced at my watch, it was only four-thirty! I had plenty of time! However, after my little scare, I was unable to fall back into good sleep. People started waking up earlier than 5:30, but I just laid there listening, dozing off everyonce in a while until about 5:45 when Bree told me to get ready.
I went down to breakfast at about six or so, it consisted of what Mr. March and I call "Pre-Toasted Toast" with three different types of jam, and coffee. Nutritious, right?! :)
The day overall wasn't that bad, we stopped and made lunch in Los Arcos, then finished our eighteen mile day in Torres del Rio. It seemed long at the time, but I still felt energized when we got to our hostel. Which is a good sign.
We all freshened up, and Mr. March, Bree, and Auna all took naps. I took myself down to the Bar (Yes, I said Bar, no I'm not drinking alcohol, it's what they call the dining room!) I grabbed a coke, went down the street to the grocery store/market, bought a nectarine, went back "home" and continued to just hang out. I checked all the important things, Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, then finally my email, before sticking with just music. Two Door Cinema Club to be precise...
Well, that was about it for today. Hopefully on the days to come I feel just as good, and better!
-Deija
18 miles
Total 90.1
Today I woke up at about 4:30AM. The hostel we stayed in last night was great, but in the room we all were in, there was also a few older guys that snored really loud. So, not very much sleep was taking place...even with earplugs and headphones.
I woke because I had a dream that it was late, and that I had to rush and get ready, but I woke up from my dream and glanced at my watch, it was only four-thirty! I had plenty of time! However, after my little scare, I was unable to fall back into good sleep. People started waking up earlier than 5:30, but I just laid there listening, dozing off everyonce in a while until about 5:45 when Bree told me to get ready.
I went down to breakfast at about six or so, it consisted of what Mr. March and I call "Pre-Toasted Toast" with three different types of jam, and coffee. Nutritious, right?! :)
The day overall wasn't that bad, we stopped and made lunch in Los Arcos, then finished our eighteen mile day in Torres del Rio. It seemed long at the time, but I still felt energized when we got to our hostel. Which is a good sign.
We all freshened up, and Mr. March, Bree, and Auna all took naps. I took myself down to the Bar (Yes, I said Bar, no I'm not drinking alcohol, it's what they call the dining room!) I grabbed a coke, went down the street to the grocery store/market, bought a nectarine, went back "home" and continued to just hang out. I checked all the important things, Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, then finally my email, before sticking with just music. Two Door Cinema Club to be precise...
Well, that was about it for today. Hopefully on the days to come I feel just as good, and better!
-Deija
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