Day 29: Palas de Rei to Aruza (James)

Day 29:  Palas se Rei to Aruza
17.5 Miles
464.5 Miles

I might end up mirroring Auna's post yesterday.  The Camino has officially become a race.  I can hear the starting gun earlier and earlier in the morning.  A series of beeps and bells from alarm clocks, watches and cell phones pulls everyone from their bunks.  In a well played out routine, everyone sets about their business of packing.  Every pilgrim is truly being as quiet as possible, but the cumulative effect of 20 bodies quietly getting ot of beds, 20 zippers quietly closing, 20 plastic sacks quietly stuffed into a backpack, 20 opening and closing of bathrooms doors can be, well, loud.  This morning we were the lazy pilgrims, the last ones out of bed.  It was 5:15am.

I wish we could just all agree to start walking one hour later than normal.  You know, just make a pact.  Then we all wouldn't have to wait for two hours for the albergue to open, and more importantly, we wouldn't have to do this walk in the dark.  The first hour and a half is spent adjusting your eyes, trying not to trip over rocks, and desperately trying to make out faint yellows arrows.  I suppose it just is what it is.  Regardless, I'm still enjoying myself.

Speaking of enjoying themselves.  You should have seen Auna and Deija the last couple of days.  It has been as if a fire has been lit under their feet.  I think they have all of the sudden become aware of how much work they have put into this.  Up until this point, we have mostly traveled with the same groups of people.  We all went through the pain and suffering of the beginning of the trip together. We all gained in strength together.  We all went through the same oppressive sun and the same rainstorms together.  This creates bonds like no other, but it can mask your ability to truly appreciate how far you have really come.  It hasn't been until the last few days that we have seen newer pilgrims just starting their own adventure.  We see them dealing with blisters,  sore ankles and knees.  We see them look at their maps at the start of every hill as if there was a small glimmer of hope that maybe they took a wrong turn and weren't really supposed to climb.  It gives us a good perspective on our own journey.  I don't care if it is not exactly in the spirit of the Camino, but I'm intensly proud that these girls can walk 17+ miles straight without a single break and then get up and do the same thing the next day.  Deija even beat some mountain bikers up a hill today!

Our journey so far has taken us to within 25 miles of Santiago and less than 75 miles to the coast.  Because of the logistics and availability of albergues, we will split the last of the Camino into two days, with a mere three day hike to the coast.  It feels weird to look over to the west and know that everyone's destination is just over the hills.  People are excited.  There is a buzz in the air.  Maybe I can't blame people for wanting to get up at 4:30.  Well, actually, I can.  4:30am is ridiculous.

I am hoping we get wifi tomorrow, but if we don't, the next time you here from us will be from Santiago, amid the celebration on the 25th.  It will be a crazy day to be there, but this whole adventure has been crazy and we wouldn't have it any other way.

Until then.......Buen Camino!

James